To get you started off with building this very simple boiler for your live steam traction engine, you need a seamless gauge copper tube that is approximately 1. You need to be aware this book was written up before steam regulations were updated around calling for twin water feeds, twin relief valves set at different pressures and various other safety measures, but this build has been adapted to suit these changes to the regs.
These lengths are just less than 12 inches mm each for the above diameter. You will also need two circles of gauge approximately 2. One point here is that if you are thinking of scaling this engine up to 1. You could use metric taps and dies if you wish, but the ones I have are really inferior quality, as, if I cut a nut at 6mm from one set of taps and then cut a bolt, again at 6mm from another set I have, the two will not even thread together despite them supposedly being the same size and thread pitch.
I think they were produced in different parts of the world by different manufacturers, so it was asking for trouble. For that reason I tend to stick with the old imperial sizes for taps and dies as they produce a far better result. So starting at the beginning, the boiler barrel of PYRTE , your soon-to-be Traction Engine, the basic frame that everything is attached to on the usual traction engine or roller, needs both ends cleaning up of burrs and a carrier inserting to support it in the lathe while the ends are squared and a few marks put on it to make life easier a little later on.
The picture shows the 6mm studding I originally used, but this was not really sturdy enough. The white area on the copper tube is merely where the glue from the label was attached by the supplier and can be ignored. The tailstock end can now be skimmed, using a sharp tool, but be very gentle with your cutting, and cut toward the studding rather than away from it, and also heading towards the chuck, otherwise the tube will simply move towards your tailstock if it is not gripped tight enough by your timber inserts.
Talking about wobbling, you will not get your tube to run perfectly true, as the manufacturing process does not demand perfection and concentricity, regardless of any handling problems the tube has endured, so you will have to try to get it wobbling as little as possible before you begin.
Skim the end near the tailstock, and then de-bur it and turn the whole lot round end to end, adjust the carrier positions, true it up and skim the other end. You are aiming for a foot in length, but building machinery in general calls for very slight modifications regarding measurements — this part is not critical, especially as it is your first attempt, providing at least one end the rear end that everything else attaches to is dead square.
In fact, my boiler barrel length ended up at ten and one quarter inches it was just a tube I had available at the time. While it is in the lathe it is best to place a few marks on your barrel, so attach a scriber to your tool post and gently scribe a line along the side of the barrel. Providing you can see it, it is OK for now, as it will have a few light saw cut marks on it for ease of seeing, as this line will most certainly disappear from general eyesight with heat treatment during the building process.
Take a piece of foolscap paper big enough to go right round the barrel diagonally? This gives an exact measurement for the outer circumference, so all you need to do is to fold that length in half and mark it on the paper again.
What this has done is to give two positions on the paper, which can be applied to the barrel, showing the exact top and bottom of the barrel. Now if you assume the already scribed line is the top, and hold the original overlap mark on this line, then the second mark is the bottom centre line as you go round the circumference of your barrel. This point needs marking on you barrel, and with the scriber point aligned with this second mark, a second line can be lightly scribed along the length of your barrel, that way giving you a top and bottom line to work to.
If you wish, you can provide these same marks using a piece of angle iron by sitting the angle iron along the length of your boiler and scribing along one edge of the angle iron, that way a line can be drawn truly along its length.
Three more marks need to be added. These marks will be used for the setting out, so will need to be obvious, but not overly so. Report Cinematic Bug Install or enable Adobe Flash Player. Alternatively, we also recommend the SuperNova! Plugin for Chrome as an easy way to enable Flash content in the browser. Get more out of your Kongregate experience. Take advantage of ad-free gaming, cool profile skins, automatic beta access, and private chat with Kong Plus.
Learn more ». In , the timeline to the working days of steam was short. World War II was a fresh wound, and before the war, steam had still been a fact of life on many farms. But after the war, the agricultural landscape was changing, and quickly.
Gas-powered tractors were the order of the day, and modern combines did the work of several machines. Filters Clear filters. Type Show unchecked fuel 1 unchecked live steam accessories 2 unchecked live steam engine Brand Show unchecked MSS 1 unchecked wilesco Available Show unchecked now unchecked soon.
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